The Story of Escazú: From Indigenous Resting Place to Modern Enclave

Origins and Indigenous Roots

The story of Escazú, a vibrant canton in Costa Rica’s San José province, begins long before European settlers arrived in the lush Central Valley. The name "Escazú" derives from the indigenous Huetar word "Izt-kat-zu," meaning "resting stone" or "place of rest." This etymology reflects its historical role as a strategic stopover for Huetar tribes traveling between the villages of Aserrí and Pacaca (near modern-day Ciudad Colón). Positioned roughly halfway along this route, Escazú offered weary travelers a place to rest, surrounded by the rolling hills of the Cerros de Escazú and the fertile Central Valley. The area’s natural beauty, with its temperate climate and proximity to water sources like the Río Tiribí, made it an ideal waypoint in pre-Columbian times. Today, approximately 1,000 descendants of the Huetar people still live in the region, preserving a connection to this ancient heritage.

By the 16th century, Spanish colonization began reshaping the Central Valley. Escazú emerged as a distinct settlement, its fertile lands attracting early settlers. However, in 1755, colonial authorities ordered Escazú’s residents to relocate to San José as part of a consolidation effort to strengthen the capital. The fiercely independent residents resisted, refusing to abandon their homes, a testament to the community’s deep-rooted identity. This defiance laid the foundation for Escazú’s growth as a distinct entity. By 1796–1799, the community cooperated to build the Church of San Miguel, a colonial-era landmark that still stands today in Escazú Centro, symbolizing the town’s resilience and cultural continuity.

Formal Establishment and Early Growth

Escazú was officially recognized as a canton on December 7, 1848, making it one of Costa Rica’s earliest administrative divisions. This decree formalized its status within the San José province, with the canton encompassing three districts: Escazú (San Miguel), San Antonio, and San Rafael. By 1801, the population had grown to 1,325, reflecting steady development. The canton’s boundaries were defined by the Río Tiribí to the north and the peak of Cerro Cedral in the Cerros de Escazú to the south, covering an area of 34.53 square kilometers at a mean elevation of 1,129 meters.

On May 28, 1920, Escazú was granted city status, with San Miguel de Escazú designated as the capital of the canton. This period marked significant growth, as the area transitioned from a rural outpost to a more structured community. The canton’s cultural identity also began to take shape, steeped in folklore. Escazú earned the nickname "La Ciudad de las Brujas" (The City of the Witches), a moniker tied to local legends about witches who supposedly used their powers to aid or curse residents. Some attribute this reputation to Crypto-Jewish traditions brought by Conversos (converted Jews) who settled in the area, blending their practices with local customs. This mystical lore is celebrated in the canton’s municipal seal, depicting a witch on a broomstick flying over the mountains, and in traditions like the "mascaradas," parades featuring giant papier-mâché heads.

Escazú in the 20th Century

Throughout the 20th century, Escazú evolved from a rural settlement into a suburban hub within the Greater Metropolitan Area of San José. Its proximity to the capital, just 7.5 miles west, made it an attractive location for development. In 1940, the Costa Rica Country Club, the nation’s first private golf and social club, opened in Escazú, signaling its growing status as an enclave for the elite. The club’s 18-hole championship golf course and luxurious amenities became a cornerstone of the canton’s upscale identity.

By the late 20th century, Escazú was known for its blend of tradition and modernity. Colonial-era adobe houses, some of the last in Costa Rica, coexisted with emerging commercial centers. The Church of San Miguel, the Monument of the New Century (built in 1901), and the Monument of the Boyero, celebrating the traditional oxcart drivers, became cultural landmarks. The annual Día del Boyero, a vibrant festival featuring colorfully painted oxcarts, reinforced Escazú’s connection to Costa Rican traditions, drawing locals and visitors alike.

Transformation in the Last 20 Years (2005–2025)

Over the past two decades, Escazú has undergone a dramatic transformation, earning the moniker "The Beverly Hills of Costa Rica" for its affluence, modern infrastructure, and cosmopolitan vibe. This period has seen rapid urbanization, an influx of expatriates, and significant commercial and residential development, positioning Escazú as Costa Rica’s most upscale and sought-after suburb.

Urban and Commercial Development

Since the early 2000s, Escazú has become a hub for high-end commercial projects. The Multiplaza Escazú, one of Costa Rica’s largest shopping malls, expanded significantly during this period, offering international brands like Zara, Armani Exchange, and Tiffany & Co., alongside the country’s first IMAX theater. Avenida Escazú, often compared to Rodeo Drive, emerged as a modern commercial center with high-rise buildings, luxury boutiques, and gourmet restaurants. These developments have attracted major retail players, corporate headquarters, and international businesses, making Escazú a vibrant economic center.

The dining scene has also flourished, with Escazú becoming a foodie destination. Restaurants like Zonna Gastro Bar and Divina Comida offer Peruvian fusion cuisine, while international chains like P.F. Chang’s cater to diverse tastes. The presence of high-end medical facilities, such as CIMA Hospital, and prestigious schools like Blue Valley, West College, and the Texas Tech University campus (established in recent years), has further enhanced Escazú’s appeal to affluent residents and expatriates.

Expat Enclave and Global Influence

Escazú’s proximity to San José, combined with its scenic beauty and modern amenities, has made it a magnet for expatriates from North America, Europe, and South America. The canton hosts numerous embassies, including those of the United States, Canada, Germany, and South Korea, earning parts of Escazú the nickname "Embassy Row." The large expat population, coupled with a significant Jewish community and several synagogues, has fostered a multicultural environment where English is widely spoken. This global influence is evident in the availability of international schools, English-oriented businesses, and luxury services like ritzy salons and designer shops.

The influx of foreigners has driven real estate prices upward, with Escazú becoming one of Costa Rica’s most expensive places to live. Detached homes in the hilly areas start at US$1 million, while luxury estates can reach US$18 million. Condominium towers, such as Monte Plata and Zenna, offer modern living spaces with prices ranging from US$800,000 to US$5 million for penthouses. The shift from traditional Spanish-Colonial architecture to modern designs with clean lines and open floor plans reflects changing tastes, with new constructions dominating the market. Despite high costs, Escazú remains a value proposition compared to similar upscale areas in the United States.

Social and Environmental Progress

Escazú’s development extends beyond commerce and real estate. In 2013, Costa Rica’s Ministry of Planification recognized Escazú as the country’s most socially developed canton, citing high marks in education, health, internet access, and citizen involvement. By 2022, the United Nations Development Programme ranked Escazú as Costa Rica’s second-highest canton for human development, with a score of 0.867, just behind Santa Ana. This reflects improvements in infrastructure, education, and public services.

In 2018, Escazú gained international attention as the namesake of the Escazú Agreement, a landmark regional treaty adopted in the canton to promote environmental justice, public participation, and sustainable development in Latin America and the Caribbean. The agreement underscores Escazú’s role as a center for progressive initiatives. Since 2018, the canton has also implemented a Municipal Educational Policy (2018–2028), focusing on reducing social inequalities through education programs, particularly in underserved neighborhoods. The COVID-19 pandemic prompted an emphasis on health education, further aligning with these goals.

Population and Cultural Evolution

Escazú’s population has grown significantly, from 56,509 in 2011 to an estimated 71,500 in 2022, with 79.8% living in urban areas. The canton’s demographic includes a mix of affluent locals, expatriates, and a small but significant Huetar population. Cultural traditions, such as the Día del Boyero and mascaradas, continue to thrive, blending with modern attractions like the Escazú Village mall and the Hacienda La Chimba coffee tours in nearby Santa Ana. The canton’s natural surroundings, including hiking trails like those at Cerro Pico Blanco and the Escazú Hills Sanctuary, attract outdoor enthusiasts, balancing urban growth with access to nature.

Governance and Recent Developments

Escazú’s governance reflects its progressive ethos. Mayors and municipal council members are elected every four years, with Orlando Esteban Umaña Umaña of the New Generation Party elected mayor in 2024. The Municipal Council, led by Mario Arce Guillén, continues to prioritize development and social equity. The canton’s high human development index and robust infrastructure make it a model for other Costa Rican municipalities.

Escazú Today

Today, Escazú stands as a dynamic blend of tradition and modernity. Its colonial landmarks, like the Church of San Miguel and the Monument of the Boyero, coexist with gleaming condo towers and luxury malls. The canton’s reputation as a safe, affluent, and expat-friendly destination has solidified its status as Costa Rica’s premier suburb. With its stunning mountain views, vibrant cultural scene, and access to San José’s urban offerings, Escazú continues to evolve while honoring its roots as a "resting stone" for travelers. As it looks to the future, Escazú remains a beacon of luxury, sustainability, and cultural richness in the heart of Costa Rica’s Central Valley.